Sossusvlei has hundreds of dunes, but almost every traveller asks the same question before they arrive: Dune 45 or Big Daddy, and is there time for both? The answers on the TripAdvisor Sossusvlei forum are surprisingly consistent. This guide puts them together with the climb times travellers have published, and sets out how the morning works with the heat and the drive to Deadvlei.

The three dunes, side by side

Namibia Wildlife Resorts says the Namib-Naukluft dunes reach up to 325 metres measured from the base, but it does not give a height for any named dune (NWR). Published heights for Dune 45 and Big Daddy disagree widely, so this guide gives none. The Namibia Tourism Board self-drive guide simply describes Big Daddy as taller than Dune 45 (Visit Namibia).

Climb times come from Stingy Nomads, Brooke Beyond and Helen in Wonderlust. They vary because fitness, sand and the route up all vary. Treat the range as the honest answer.

Dune 45: easy to reach, busy at sunrise

Dune 45 is the dune most people climb first because it stands right beside the road on the drive in, so there is no sand driving and no shuttle to wait for. That convenience is also its drawback: it is where the sunrise crowd goes. On the forum, one family who reached it mid-morning found it already getting fairly warm, and judged it a steeper, harder climb than Big Daddy.

Big Daddy, and the run down into Deadvlei

Big Daddy is the longer climb, and the reason people do it is the finish. From the top you can run straight down the face into the white clay pan of Deadvlei. One traveller in a 2015 forum trip report took about 90 minutes to climb it and under 10 minutes to come down. The catch is timing: Big Daddy rises above Deadvlei, beyond the end of the tar, so you start later than at Dune 45. Our guides to the final five kilometres to Sossusvlei and Deadvlei and the 4×4 shuttle to Deadvlei explain that last stretch.

You do not have to climb Big Daddy to see Deadvlei. Stingy Nomads point out that you can visit Deadvlei without it. And if your back or knees argue against a long climb, a forum reply suggests Big Mama, which is a much shorter climb.

Timing the morning, and the heat

Everything here depends on getting through the gate early. Gate times change through the year, so check Sesriem gate times month by month before you plan. In a forum thread about Sesriem, one suggested plan is Big Daddy first, then down into Deadvlei, and finished by about 11:00, with the warning that after 10:00 the colours turn flat.

The heat sets the limit. Brooke Beyond advises going early to beat the midday heat, and a forum reply about summer says the heat would be brutal by 11 in the morning. Sunset is not a cool alternative either: another forum reply points out the sand is still hot then. For a sunrise on Big Daddy itself, a traveller staying at the Sesriem campsite was told on the forum that it is not possible; another reply said you would need to stay inside the park to try.

Both dunes on one trip

Most forum replies say one dune per morning is enough. In the Big Daddy and/or Dune 45 thread, the advice was to do the second dune the next morning rather than both on the same day. If you have two mornings at Sossusvlei, one option is Dune 45 one day and Big Daddy with Deadvlei the next.

If you are heading on to Swakopmund, our view is that Sossusvlei and Sandwich Harbour are two totally different tours, and worth doing together: one is red dunes inland, the other is dunes meeting the Atlantic. See Sandwich Harbour 4×4 tours.

What to carry

Water first. The 2015 trip report carried half a litre to a litre for an early climb and suggested about 2 litres per person for anyone starting after 9:00. The Visit Namibia self-drive guide lists plenty of water containers among the things to pack, along with hats and sunblock.

Frequently asked questions

Should I climb Dune 45 or Big Daddy?

Climb one, early. Dune 45 is beside the road, short and steep, and busiest at sunrise. Big Daddy is a longer, quieter climb that ends with a run down into Deadvlei.

Can I climb Dune 45 and Big Daddy on the same day?

You can, but forum regulars advise against it in the heat. The usual advice is to climb one dune each morning, for example Dune 45 one day and Big Daddy with Deadvlei the next.

How long does it take to climb Big Daddy?

Published times range from about 30 minutes (Stingy Nomads) to 45 to 90 minutes, plus a 20 to 30 minute walk to its base (Helen in Wonderlust). One forum trip report took about 90 minutes up and under 10 minutes down.

How long does it take to climb Dune 45?

Brooke Beyond says no more than about 15 minutes to the top. Stingy Nomads took about 40 minutes up and 5 minutes to run down.

What time does it get too hot to climb?

Travellers report the sand heating up from mid-morning. Forum advice is to be finished by about 11:00, with colours turning flat after 10:00, and Brooke Beyond advises going early to beat the midday heat.

Can I watch sunrise from Big Daddy?

A forum traveller staying at the Sesriem campsite was told it is not possible from there, and another reply said you would need to stay inside the park. Dune 45, beside the road, is the usual sunrise dune.

Do I have to climb Big Daddy to see Deadvlei?

No. Stingy Nomads point out that you can visit Deadvlei without climbing it. Big Daddy simply offers a dramatic way down into the pan.

Is there an easier dune than Big Daddy?

Yes. A forum reply suggests Big Mama, near Sossusvlei, as a much shorter climb than Big Daddy for anyone who cannot manage a long ascent.

Should I do Sandwich Harbour as well as Sossusvlei?

Yes, if you have the time. Our view is that they are two totally different tours and worth doing together: Sossusvlei is red dunes inland, Sandwich Harbour is dunes meeting the Atlantic near Walvis Bay. See Sandwich Harbour 4×4 tours.